Valvematic varies the intake valve lift between 1 and 11 mm (0.039 and 0.433 in) according to load and RPM. Compression ratio has been increased to 10.7:1, red line is at 6600 rpm. Output for this engine is rated at 129 hp (96 kW) at 6400 rpm and 118 lb⋅ft (160 N⋅m) of torque at 4400 rpm for most applications. The Toyota 1ZR-FAE is a DOHC, 16-valve, 1.6 L (1,598 cc) engine also equipped with Dual VVT-i and Valvematic. Toyota Corolla Altis (ZRE141) (Facelift Asia only).Toyota Corolla (ZRE140, ZRE151) (Europe, Middle East).Toyota Corolla EX (ZRE120) (China only).Engine type : In-Line 4-cylinder DOHC 16-valve.Output for this engine is rated at 122 hp (91 kW) at 6400 rpm and 113 lb⋅ft (153 N⋅m) of torque at 5200 rpm net. This new engine is now replacing the 3ZZ-FE engine in most applications. This engine is available with either manual gearbox (5 or 6 Speed), a "multi-mode" manual transmission (MM-T 5 Speed) or an automatic gearbox (4 Speed). The Toyota 1ZR-FE is a DOHC, 16-valve, 1.6 L (1,598 cc) engine equipped with dual VVT-i. This engine family is also the first to use Toyota's Valvematic system, first appearing on the Noah and Voxy in 2007 and then the European Avensis in 2009.ġZR-FE 1ZR-FE in Toyota Corolla 1.6 Most engines in this family are equipped with Toyota's dual VVT-i technology that optimizes both intake and exhaust valve timing. Eventually I slacked off to a drain/fill every other oil change or more until the car was totaled in a wreck.The ZR engine is a family of straight-four 16-valve all-aluminum and water cooled gasoline engines with a die-cast aluminum block and variable valve timing developed by Toyota Motor Corporation, produced from 2007. It did trend down, everything else looked good, and the trans always worked fine. Then I started doing a pan drain at every oil change and sampling every other time to see if Al went down. It showed aluminum was way high, so I did another drain and filter change. So I drained again and sent a sample to Blackstone. I drained the ATF first thing, and it looked like used motor oil. My experience is from a 1.8/U341E Vibe I bought with 29k. That is true, but the drain plug makes this job so simple that I'm willing to use a few more quarts for a cleaner process that doesn't disturb the cooler lines. Some people will say that #3 changes most of the fluid at once and therefore wastes less oil. If the trans is OK now, it's doubtful that new fluid will hurt it. Then you would have mostly new fluid, and could do additional drain/fills on a schedule like every 30k. The ideal would probably be two drain/fills and a pan drop/filter change. I suggested trying one drain/fill and seeing how it goes because you seemed unsure about doing it with high miles. And provide any proof you have, for or against any of the options. But maybe I have missed that in my internet searches. To those that advocate 5, I have never seen anyone produce evidence that 1-3 ever caused a documented problem. I really respect CCN but he never showed any evidence of 1 or 2 causing a problem with high mileage transmission. Car Care Nut (CCN) guy says only do 1 or 2. Toyota says don't do anything as fluid is lifetime: this is pure bunk IMO. ![]() If you do any of the above 1-4 you run the risk of damaging the transmission. Because the transmission fluid was not changed earlier then deposits have built up. No one seems to recommend this out of concern that deposits will be broken loose and cause damage.ĥ. Do transmission flush with flush machine. Do this until fluid runs clean (this is what I typically do).Ĥ. Then unhook transmission line and let transmission pump fluid out, replacing one quart at every quart pumped out. My son's 2010 Toyota Corolla has 100,000 miles on it.
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